Ma Shi Po Village, one of the villages by Ng Tung River, has been at the heart of the land justice movement against the northeast New Territories development plan in Hong Kong.

While it has brought together villagers who strive to safeguard their homes and people concerned about land development and local farming, the taste of locally grown vegetables and an alternative lifestyle are considered gems to urban dwellers.

Mapopo Community Farm in Ma Shi Po Village located in Luen Wo Hui, Fanling is where a number of disputes have occurred during clearance of farmland.

Owner Becky Au said the farm has supported her family for three generations. “I love telling stories about this village and showing people that Hong Kong has its own agricultural sector and can grow its own vegetables.”

The brick floor at the entrance of the village has been the battlefield of social justice. “We built a tower to defend our farmland. 60 or 70 security guards from the land developer once came to drive us away.”

She stresses that it is not only the farmland that she is protecting, but local farming and social justice as well. “Once this farmland is ceded, the farmland there and in other villages in the New Territories will be at stake.”

Back in the 1940s and 1950s, Au’s grandparents fled to Hong Kong from China and built a squatter in Ma Shi Po Village. The couple brought up a family of eight by farming. Their 90-year-old grandmother comes back to the squatter to help with household chores every day, even after she has moved to the other side of the river.

“Her apartment across the river is just her bedroom, her home remains here,” Au says.

However, the family of three generations do not own the land. They used to pay a monthly rent of HK$1,000 (US$129), which was raised to over HK$4,000 (US$516) and then HK$14,000 (US$1,806) now, a rather exorbitant price for a piece of farmland. They stay on nonetheless so that they can farm.

“My grandmother has lived here since her 20s, and now she is in her 90s. It will be very hard for her to move away – and for me too.” Holding back her tears, Au confesses that she is mentally prepared to be evacuated sooner or later, but they still avoid making plans for it.

The government has planned to vacate the site of Mapopo Community Farm in the third quarter of this year. Her house has been assigned with a lot number, due to be removed.

“After my father comes back from farming, he always spends all his time either sleeping or watching videos about farming techniques. The farmland is his everything. He does not want to move. He will keep farming as long as he has the land and the energy.”

Au founded Mapopo Community Farm to show people an alternative way to live in an urban jungle such as Hong Kong. The third-generation farmer still believes that there are many choices in life, and the choice is yours.

Across Ng Tung River is the Society for Indigenous Learning, a growing community that has been advocating for respect and recognition for differences and alternative lifestyles through land education. Hung Ling-yin, who was as a cabin crew, now works a full-time farmer at the co-op.

“I resigned as a flight attendant eight years ago. So it’s like I have kept my feet on the ground after having my head in the clouds, literally.” He became interested in farming during the anti-Express Rail Link protests, where he met local farmers and started to learn about farming.

Visitors to the village are welcome to pick and taste the locally grown organic vegetables. The water spinach is so fresh that a simple salad can already do justice to its natural, tender sweetness.

“The farmland was not really arable as it was covered with debris when we first found it. It took some solid effort to make it farmable. Being able to grow vegetables in such an undesirable environment gives me a lot of satisfaction,” Hung continues. “In the past, the ‘seasonal veggies’ served at most wonton noodle shops in Sheung Shui were vegetables grown in the New Territories. It’s a huge pity that’s not the case anymore.”

In Wah Sha Village, Sheung Shui, several youngsters share a co-living space called To Yau, where they grow vegetables, make furniture with abandoned wood and craft ceramics with soil. Everything here comes from the earth. The group loves sharing food with visitors for more people to taste the freshness and authenticity in home-grown produce.

“It looks like we have just begun preparing food now, but when you really think about it, the preparation actually started way back when the farmers sowed the seeds. The food has been prepared for years,” says Pui-kei, one of the members.

“Before I came here, I never knew where the crops I was eating came from. But now, I dine with the farmers who grow my vegetables at the same table,” Ah Heng notes as he makes Cha Kwo, Hakka glutinous rice dumplings made with Chinese fevervine herb and steamed on banana leaves, under the instructions from Sum Wing-kui, the head chef of To Yau.

Another member Wanho takes care of the wooden stove. “Food cooked on a wooden stove carries a whiff of earthy, woody fragrance. It just tastes better. Rice cooked on a wooden stove can always warm you up and give you a nice, hearty energy.”

The group likes gathering around a large dining table on the rooftop. The yellow light bulbs on the trellis shine on their farm-to-table food, illuminating the stories behind each of them.

“These are all seasonal ingredients grown by farmers we know. The perilla leaves came from Fei Kee in Sandy Ridge, grapes from Zen Organic Farm in Ping Che, okra from Mapopo Community Farm and cucumbers from Makee Farm also in Ping Che,” says Sum the chef.

Sum picks up a funky-looking wild lemon. “After tasting a locally grown lemon, I have gained a much deeper appreciation for lemon. The aroma is very different.” Being aware of the origin of food ingredients, reminded by their freshness and exquisite flavours, brings gratitude to nature as well as to farmers for their efforts.

Mapopo Community Farm FB: mapopo.page

Society for Indigenous Learning FB: soilhk2012

To Yau FB: toyau.wahshan

Click here for Chinese version.

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