Many travelers like to fill their itinerary with centuries-old cathedrals when they visit Europe, but not many are aware that there are around 140 impressive Catholic churches and chapels across Hong Kong. Reverend Deacon Faustus Lam, a pastor of the Catholic Diocese of Hong Kong, is also a first-generation local architect who studied architectural conservation in Britain. Here are some of his favorites which deserve our homage.
Hong Kong Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Mid-Levels
The Gothic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is beaming with a sacred and solemn ambience.
First erected on Wellington Street in Central in 1842, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception was moved to Caine Road in the Mid-Levels in 1888, featuring a Gothic design with a Greek-cross floor plan.
Be it viewed from the front or from the side, the cathedral’s design follows the golden ratio, which is the mathematical equation for beauty established by ancient scholars. Sunlight shines through the giant windows and lights up the aisle, illuminating a path to salvation. Deacon Lam says, “It’s hard to say whether the designers adopted the golden ratio or just followed their instincts when they drafted the design of the church. No one would ever know.”
The cathedral has gone through thorough conservation, from the roof-supporting frame to the crafted iron spiral ladders and the marble green floor. “The stained glass windows may look exactly like the original, but it took huge efforts to take the original glass panes off one by one, then clip each of them with two pieces of tempered glass, before putting them back up. It was not easy to find the glasses that match the original ones,” says Deacon Lam.
A marble slab in the church also tells the story of Father Theodore Joset, a Swiss priest and the first Prefect Apostolic of Hong Kong. The slab was accidentally broken during repair in 2000. “Only when we tried to collect the fragments did we discover a bag that experts believed to be carrying the remains of Father Joset.”
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
Grading: Grade 1 Historic Building
Location: 16 Caine Road, Mid-Levels
One of the gems in the church is the spiral iron staircase.
The floor combines tiles from different times.
Underneath the slab lies the remains of the first Prefect Apostolic of Hong Kong.
Rosary Church, Tsim Sha Tsui
The main door of the Rosary Church was constructed in 1950, which reduced the size of the front yard.
The oldest of its kind in Kowloon, the Rosary Church on Chatham Road South in Tsim Sha Tsui goes back to the time of the Boxer Uprising in 1900, when British military regiments were mobilized to Hong Kong and stationed in Kowloon. As the influx of war refugees led to a spike in the Catholic population, the small church with a simple layout was eventually expanded into a Gothic cross-shaped premise. Deacon Lam says with a smile, “There used to be a square in front of the entrance when it was built in 1905. During an extensive construction work in the same year, the entrance was moved forward. Now, people holding weddings here do not even have enough space to take group photos.”
The Rosary Church is a perfect combination of the old and the new. The Italian granolithic baptismal font by the side door reveals the church’s centennial history. The Chinese clay-tiled semi-circular roof resting on the Western dome-shaped frame also makes a masterpiece, Deacon Lam notes. “The church is not huge, but it provides a majestic space and grandiose ceiling. It is extraordinary.”
The Italian granolithic baptismal font dates back to 1905 when the church was built.
The church’s most eye-catching feature is the 20 round icons on the arched wall above the main altar. They portray the 20 decades of the Rosary to assist devotees in meditating the Joyful, Sorrowful and Glorious mysteries. The icons featuring the Luminous mysteries were only added about 30 years ago, after being introduced by St. Pope John Paul II. Deacon Lam says, “The 15 icons on the outer circle date back to 1905, while those on the inner circle might have just been added over a decade ago. You can tell the difference between the old and the new. The old ones were more delicately crafted.”
Rosary Church
Grading:Grade 1 Historic Building
Location:125 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui
The ceiling of the Rosary Church seamlessly combines a Chinese clay-tiled roof with a Western dome-shaped frame.
The two saint statues beside the figure of Our Lady of Pompeii were installed two months ago.
Holy Spirit Seminary, Wong Chuk Hang
It would be difficult to tell that this is a Catholic seminary if not for the cross erected on the roof.
Transformed from the South China General Seminary in 1931, the Holy Spirit Seminary is unique for its “East-meets-West” architectural style. The original intention was to build a grand Chinese quadrangular courtyard known as “Siheyuen.” However, only the south wing was erected due to insufficient funds. Deacon Lam explains, “Traditionally, the main hall of a seven-room historic Chinese building is situated in the middle of the longer side. However, when it was used as a church, the layout was turned sideways with the main door located in the middle of the shorter side.”
The church was built in an eclectic style due to economic recession in the ’30s, featuring green glazed tiles on the roof, granite bases, interlocking wooden brackets and intricate decorative patterns. Chinese auspicious symbols are also used to convey Catholic ideas. For example, a fortunate sign of an upside-down bat holding a coin echoes the abundant blessings recounted by Jesus. A particular cloud shape representing good omen is parallel to the pillar of cloud and fire that leads the people of Israel out of Egypt in the Book of Exodus. Deacon Lam says, “The church wanted to translate theology and religion into a local language that was more digestible and acceptable to Chinese and Hongkongers.”
Chinese auspicious symbols are borrowed to convey Catholic ideas.
As an academic center of philosophy and theology for priests, the Holy Spirit Seminary is not open to the public except for special events. But Deacon Lam encourages people to visit and explore other churches in different neighborhoods. “Catholic churches are open to all most of the time. Catholics may wish to spend 15 minutes during lunch time with God alone. And if you are not a believer, you can still go to a church and have a quiet moment to talk to your inner self.”
Holy Spirit Seminary
Grading: Grade 1 Historic Building
Location: 6 Welfare Rd, Wong Chuk Hang
The arch is called “The Canton Gate” as the seminarians from Guangdong often gathered there to enjoy the cool breeze.
The labyrinth made of pebbles is a place dedicated for prayer and meditation.
Special thanks to the Catholic Diocese of Hong Kong